River Runner - Stitch & Glue - Part 2 click "comment" to read or make an observation about this  article - click "email" to send this page to a friend
By Chuck Leinweber - Harper, Texas USA
 

An epoxy and wood flour fillet is applied to the corners of the interior of the boat and 4 oz cloth is applied right over the wet fillets.

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If you look closely you can see that the glass only goes about 3/5 of the way up the insides of the boat. That was how wide the material we had was and it seemed like enough.

 

Once more we turned the boat over. This time we sanded a nice 1/2" radius on the chines and generally smoothed the bottom. Our Aluminum plate was screwed into its recess with 3m 5200.

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Next we glassed the bottom. We used either 9 oz or 12 oz cloth. I can't remember which. We ran it crossways with tape under the joints (forground).

 

Before the wet-out coat had set up, we began a series of three coats of graphite powder mixed in epoxy. Our concentration was about equal parts by volume.

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Next we glassed the bottom. We used either 9 oz or 12 oz cloth. I can't remember which. We ran it crossways with tape under the joints (forground).

 

Before gluing the outwale on, I did a little fairing. I decided to try the System 3 QuickFair out and I have to say it works great! It is easy to mix, gives plenty of pot time, sets up quickly once it goes and is super easy to sand.

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We have had good luck with brand name Latex Porch and Floor Enamel. Sandra does the painting and in return, I let her pick the colors. I think she did a good job.

 

The paint is allowed to dry for a couple of days before we turn the boat over one last time to work on the decks, hatches, seats, and inwales.

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Jim shows decks over the ends of the boat but we made them sealed (except for hatches) storage-bouyancy chambers. The Hatches have raised flanges to encourage water to stay on the outside.

 

I glued in enough cedar strips to attach the deck pieces to. The decks could have been taped instead but that would have involved a lot of working in cramped places.

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Jim shows decks over the ends of the boat but we made them sealed (except for hatches) storage-bouyancy chambers. The Hatches have raised flanges to encourage water to stay on the outside.

 

Decks on. There is a lot of debate about epoxy-ing plywood without glassing too. With hardwoods like this Meranti, I think it makes a good undercoat for the paint.

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Here Sandra is applying epoxy to the hatch frames. They are cedar and the tops are some 3/16" plywood left over from another project.

 

I like inwales with spacers for a couple of reasons. 1) you can get a stiffer over gunwale that is lighter. 2) you can tip the boat up on it's side to empty water out the gaps. 3) you get lots of places to tie gear in the boat - this last was very important to us for this expedition.

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You can just see the nylon hinges that allow the seat tops and hatches to raise and give access to the storage below eash.

 

I know, I know, we aren't finished yet. Well, we had made a date to paddle a local river with one of our companions for the big trip and had to go.

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We learned a lot on this outing. We learned the boat needed a skeg and that it was very stable and well mannered.

 

And of course, the main thing that still needs to be done is the paint on the inside. We used Polygard non-skid on the inside bottom and the rear deck and plain porch and floor Latex everywhere else.

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It's a boat! We pressed our good old Harbor Freight trailer into service for the trip to Utah.

 

Finally, here is a shot of us shooting the rapids on the San Juan River. Stay tuned for more about that trip...

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Back to Part 1

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