April 20, 2007

The river levels finally dropped, after a winter of rise and fall, enough to allow a venture onto the mighty Kanawha River, located in West Virginia. The 26 foot, converted cruiser-come riverboat was taken from under its winter wraps and with a general spruce up was ready for a trip on the falling river.

(Photo 1) The 26 foot, converted cruiser-come riverboat was taken from under its winter wraps and given a general spruce up.

About the boat: The boat, (photo 2) a 1962 Lonestar Aluminum Cruiser, was purchased as a stripped hull and converted to a diesel/ hydraulic sternwheeler in the early 1990’s by Ronda “Bugs” Wright for a planned trip down the Kanawha to the Mississippi via the Ohio river. Due to an unexpected, chronic illness, Bugs couldn’t make the trip and the boat languished many years on his property. In 2001 a deal was struck and the boat was purchased, by me, to use on the Kanawha river. After a refit and fine tune the old girl performed admirably and plies the waters with a cruise speed of 4.5 mph and a blazing top speed of 6 mph in still water. The 1980’s vintage Volkswagon Rabbit Diesel hums along at a leisurely pace and burns one third of a gallon of fuel per hour making time on the river (not necessarily distance) economical. In 2006 completion of the interior yielded a small double berth, confinement of the engine to a separate compartment, separate portapotti head and a small kitchen/sink/ galley area. Combined with the 6 X 10 foot covered rear deck, this space makes a great, casual, camp boat. The boat is trailer able as long as a reasonable speed is used and short distances are no problem.

The trip: On a lowering river, we launched from Leons’ small public dock and journeyed downstream on a good current making 7 mph towards our destination 14 miles away – Point Pleasant WV. – Home of the Moth Man legend. The crew (Granddad), first mate (son) and Captain (Dad) settled in for the cruise, after casting off (photo 3 and 4) , leaving loved ones behind.

(Photo 3) The crew (Granddad), first mate (son) and Captain (Dad) settled in for the cruise.

We were able to keep up with a down bound tow boat and barges (photo 5) As the engine sipped fuel, we motored into the 10 mph NW head wind with nary a care, watching the Mason county farm land glide by. During the 2 hour journey the crew took watches at the wheel with the first mate drawing the straw to run the “Gauntlet”, the congested 2 miles stretch of the Kanawha with tugs, fleeted barges, and dry docks at the confluence of the Kanawha and Ohio rivers (photos 6, 7, 8, 9). The 13 year old, first mate stayed at his post and guided us through the busy activity with the calm assurance of a true river veteran. The perception from the helm changes dramatically when going from a ¼ mile wide river to 200 yards of commercial hustle and bustle (photo 10). As he threaded the needle we noted the small creek entrance where we would return for the take out. Crossing under the bridges and rounding the “point” in Point Pleasant, we viewed Tu- endi- we Park ( photo 11) as we plowed into the Ohio river upstream and our speed slowed to 3 mph as we fought the swifter current of the big river. With only a short journey upriver required, we quickly spotted the Point Pleasant Ampitheater and RiverPark, complete with a large wharf for the river boats (Delta Queen, River Barge Explorer) and a smaller floating dock for transients like us.(photo 12)

(Photo 5) We were able to keep up with a down bound tow boat and barges.

(Photo 11) Crossing under the bridges and rounding the “point” in Point Pleasant, we viewed Tu-endi-we Park.

We slowly motored in trying not to disturb the few fishermen who were fishing from the dock. We made quick work of deploying the fenders and tying off to allow a quick survey of the public facilities. After a brief discussion with the starving and now near mutinous crew it was decided to reboard and travel across the Ohio river to Gallipolis (City of the Gauls) and search for an acceptable venue to fill the crew and captain with needed victuals. We tied up below the Gallipolis bridge and walked the rock riff raff up the banks to reveal a starving mans paradise and quickly settled on an all – you – can – stuff buffet, where crew were satisfied and moods pacified. After dinner we waddled over the river bank and to our waiting ferry, ( photo 13) crossing the current of the Ohio without problems. Back on the public dock and settling in, we made things ship shape setting up our chairs and other amenities on the boat. We decided to take a stroll thru historic down town Point Pleasant and stumbled upon the stainless steel ghost of the inhabitants before – General Lewis, ( photo 14) primary leader of the local forces, and Chief Cornstalk, (photo 15) who met his unfortunate end at the hands of local hooligans. These life size, welded, sculptures are made by a local artist and displayed here on the river. Walking in the fading light along main street and noting the old Lowe Hotel, (photo16) (established in 1901) contrasted to the funky, storefront, Mothman museum (established 2005), one wonders the path this old river town will take in the future. After a leisurely walk, it was time to return to our good boat for the night. The temperature began to fall with a low of 39 degrees expected by early morning so a steaming thermos of coffee broke the evening chill and crew and captain alike spent an hour catching up on the doings of the world thru print media. ( photo 17) As the late watch approached bedding was brought out with the elderly crew taking the inside berth and young crew and captain sleeping under cover in the hammock on deck. The stars were bright and the fuel tugs running up and down the river rocked us to sleep. With appropriate chill-poof sleeping bags, all was warm except for the required mid morning vessel line check and personal relief trip.

(Photo 13) After dinner we waddled over the river bank and to our waiting ferry.

(Photo 15) ...and Chief Cornstalk, who met his unfortunate end at the hands of local hooligans.

(Photo 17) a steaming thermos of coffee broke the evening chill and crew and captain alike spent an hour catching up on the doings of the world thru print media.

Waking up to an absolutely crisp and clear morning (photo 18) revealed all had survived the night and were ready for more mandatory grub. Leaving the boat and journeying once again into town we found Melinda’s, a small mom and pop kitchen, open at 6 a.m. with breakfast on and waiting. We made enjoyed a leisurely breakfast comprised of all of the things your doctor warns you to avoid, along with hot tea to wash it down with. Exploring the town more, we came face to face with the town centerpiece, a “ life-size” sculpture of Mothman, a local, legendary being, who appears as forecaster of local ominous events such as Chief Cornstalks murder and the collapse of the Silver Bridge.( photo 19,20) The 12 foot high stainless statue watches from its perch, seeking to intimidate the wary traveler. We continued our stroll to the River Museum ( photo 21) but alas it was not due to open until 11:00 am an hour after our planned 10:00am departure.

(Photo 19) Exploring the town more, we came face to face with the town centerpiece, a “ life-size” sculpture of Mothman

(Photo 21) We continued our stroll to the River Museum.

Rounding the corner from the museum brought to Tu- endie _ we park (photo 22) which commemorates the Battle of Point pleasant with a stone obelisk and the Mansion House an original log cabin full of period pieces and artifacts.

After a short walk along the river trail to the amphitheater and wharf, we boarded our boat, began to rig for cruising and cast off for the journey to our take out, a boat launch a few miles away. The first mate was already anticipating his maneuvers through the gauntlet and into the small inlet of the ramp. With no great difficulty he guided us among the working tugs and barges and brought us into safe harbor. (photo 23) The Captain took over for the loading onto the 1960’s vintage trailer and caused the only damage to our beloved boat, knocking off a starboard navigation light on the trailer guidepost! Once on the trailer and out of the water the river men completed their transition to normal ground bound mortals but always looking towards the water for the next adventure. (photo 24)

(Photo 23) With no great difficulty the First Mate guided us among the working tugs and barges...

Post Script: I have a soft spot for recycled boats. Many good hulls are out there which would meet our recreational needs and still allow enough building/modification to satisfy our construction bug. An example is this converted boat BUGS LIFE. Although certainly not the best hull for conversion to a sternwheeler nor the most efficient use of space, the end result is an easy to use, shallow draft, inexpensive, unique boat, which has worked well for the last 6 years. It is ideal for going nowhere and burning time on the river. At 4 to 6 mph the fuel burn doesn’t empty your pockets and gives you the time to slow down in an otherwise busy world. I hope after looking at BUGS LIFE you won’t look at all of those old derelict hulls quite the same.
Float safe,
Curtis