(see original post)
The Hawbuck is starting to fair out
nicely. I "roughed" it in with a belt sander and then
turned it over to Matt with a 12" sanding board. He probably
sanded for three hours today - don't say anything, but he's
actually doing pretty good for a grasshopper (if only he would
sweep!). Once the fairing is done we'll transfer the shear lines
from the forms and then slide her forward a foot to have better
access installing the last couple of strips on the bow shear.
The Bear Mountian Boats' strongback is an excellent design,
but in hindsight a 14 foot strongback would probably be better
for a 16 foot canoe (maybe they said that somewhere in the Canoecraft
book and I missed it!).
After the last couple of strips are
in place (only a few inches long) we'll scribe the shear and
rough cut it. Then it'll be time to shape the outer stem (steamed
ash laminate) and start unboxing the epoxy. I'll send another
update once she gets a layer of glass.
But, before I go, I'd like to make
a comment about the woods we are using (in case anyone was wondering).
Cypress seems to be a reasonable substitute for Western Red
Cedar. It cuts well, routers well, sands well, and by the time
we were into the planking I had full confidence in moving a
16 foot strip without fear it would snap. The grains look very
similar to pine to me (not a wood worker) which gives it nice
variation, but it does create a challenge making scarfs (we
scarfed about 20 strips). We ended up identifying planks by
their grain pattern, "Hand me a tiger stripe". Ash
is a great wood for unskilled people. If you've ever sanded
softwood a bit more than you intended you'll appreciate the
ironlike consistency of ash. I'll tell you right here, I'll
never use another piece of red oak on a boat - save that stuff
for a bookcase to hold your plans. Ash does have a tendency
to turn black where it is not protected, but most of us mummify
our boats in epoxy and varnish and then they are lucky to get
wet twice a month.
So I guess you can call me an ash man!