The basic criteria was a small lightweight boat that could be easily towed behind, have a low enough profile to fit on the cabin top as well as carry two adults rowing about the harbor.  Additionally, per my son, "TTB" had to be capable of carrying a sailing rig as well as a small (approximately 3hp) outboard.  The restrictions of your materials list further added to the challenge.

1.0 General

“Too Tender Behind” is a variation of a slightly larger dinghy intended to serve as a tender for my C & C Redwind 30 sloop. The original project was titled “E - Z Dink” which has carried over to the Duckworks entry.

“TTB” is intended to be a “stitch and glue” double chine dinghy. The basic dimensions are as follows:

As “TTB” is a working tender, it is designed to carry two adults about the harbor being rowed or powered by a small outboard (3hp). However, on those afternoons when you make harbor early, TTB is also designed to carry a respectable sailing rig.

While being towed, TTB needs to plane easily and offer the minimum aggravation when maneuvering in tight moorings or being hoisted upon the cabin house. The estimated weight of the finished hull in the rowing configuration is about 100 pounds.

Because a tender lives a fairly rough and tumble life, TTB is fitted with a busstantial rub-rail made by splitting one of the 1.5 inch diameter poles lengthwise.

2.0 Drawings

The drawing package consists of:

• a) The general arrangement of the E-Z Dink
• b) The lines drawing
• c) Basic dimensions
• d) Sectional views including rudder and centerboard
• e) Sail plan with dimensions
• f) Layout of plywood sheet A
• g) Layout of plywood sheet B
• h) Layout of dimensional 1x2x10' including mast cutting and sectional detail
• i) Layout of dimensional 2x4x8' and1.5 inch diameter poles
• j) Layout of tarps
• k) Cut-out model of hull

Drawing k) is included for those skilled in the art of paper dolls to build a “paper and tape” scale version of the hull.

It should be noted that there are electronic versions of the design available in AutoCAD format if required.

3.0 Materials

MATERIAL LIST

3.1 Fastener/Hardware list

FASTENER/HARDWARE LIST

4.0 Assembly sequence

Please note: If you are unfamiliar with the techniques used to stitch and glue boat building, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the procedures by reading: Devlin’s Boat Building by Samuel Devlin (ISBN 0-07-157990-7).

After components are cut and finished as required, the assembly sequence is as follows:

• 0.0 Hull assembly
  • 0.1 Plywood
    • 0.1.1 Stitch transom to port bottom
    • 0.1.2 Stitch starboard bottom to 1.1
    • 0.1.3 Stitch port and starboard bottom along garboard
    • 0.1.4 Stitch port chine 1 to port bottom and transom
    • 0.1.5 Stitch starboard chine 1 to starboard bottom and transom
    • 0.1.6 Stitch starboard port and chine 1's together at bow
    • 0.1.7 Stitch port chine 2 to port chine 1 and transom
    • 0.1.8 Stitch starboard chine 2 to starboard chine 1 and transom
    • 0.1.9 Stitch port and starboard chine 2's together at bow
  • 0.2 Thwarts and transom supports
    • 0.2.1 Locate and fit thwarts to hull, check hull dimensionally for square and location. Assemble thwarts to hull using #8 x 1.5 screws. (note: if centerboard is fitted, do not assemble center seat forward thwart at this time.)
    • 0.2.2 Add transom thwarts and support
  • 0.3 Epoxy
    • 0.3.1 Mix epoxy and filler and apply to bottom and chine seams (note fillet thickness = plywood thickness at a minimum)
    • 0.3.2 After the epoxy is set, remove the stitching
    • 0.3.3 Fill stitch holes and any additional areas
    • 0.3.4 After epoxy filler is set, sand as required
  • 0.4 Seal interior with epoxy
  • 0.5 Fiberglass
    • 0.5.1 Apply fiberglass and epoxy tape to the seams inside and out (minimum of 3 layers alternating centerlines to feather edge)
    • 0.5.2 Apply fiberglass tape and epoxy to thwart joints
      • 0.6 Construct C/B trunk (if fitted)
    • 0.6.1 Locate C/B components dry fit to hull with center seat forward thwart located
    • 0.6.2 Fiberglass inside surfaces of C/B trunk
    • 0.6.3 After the fiberglass is set, assemble C/B trunk.
    • 0.6.4 Locate C/B trunk in hull–assemble center seat forward thwarts
    • 0.6.5 Fillet the C/B trunk with epoxy filler
    • 0.6.6 Fiberglass tape C/B trunk to hull as above
    • 0.6.7 When set, cut C/B slot in hull
  • 0.7 Sheath the exterior of the hull
    • 0.7.1 Using the glass cloth, apply epoxy and fiberglass cloth to the exterior of the hull.
    • 0.7.2 Sand and fair hull as required
• 1.0 Seats and rub-rail
  •  
    • 1.1.1 Assemble seats to thwarts
    • 1.1.2 Assemble rub-rails to hull
• 2.0 Paint hull
• 3.0 Assemble hardware to hull
• 4.0 Mast
  • 4.1 Cut components per plan
  • 4.2 Glue sections together (note alternate sections to be staggered)
  • 4.3 Round edges
  • 4.4 Seal with epoxy
• 5.0 Boom 
  • 5.1 Fabricate yoke for gooseneck from scrap and attach to boom
• 6.0 Rudder
  • 6.1 Glue rudder blades
  • 6.2 After set fair blades to hydrodynamic shape
  • 6.3 Glue rudder upper section (note filler to be planed to 5/8 thickness)
  • 6.4 Coat with epoxy
  • 6.5 Attach hardware
  • 6.6 Assemble
• 7.0 Centerboard
  • 7.1 Assemble and glue centerboard halves
  • 7.2 After glue is set, fair to hydrodynamic shape
  • 7.3 Coat with epoxy to seal
  • 7.4 Add top plate
  • 7.5 Locate stop holes at convenient places
• 8.0 Sail
  • 8.1 Sew two poly tarps together with 2.5" overlap
  • 8.2 Layout and cut sail shape per pattern
  • 8.3 Sew pockets along the mast and boom to accommodate mast and boom

Additional enhancements may include flotation under the seats as well as a small outboard or trolling motor for cruising about the harbor.