TruantSea Mods  
By Grahame Harris - Hamilton, New Zealand

Minor Customisation from John Welsford’s plans

I thought I’d just note a few of the minor changes I’ve made to John Welsford’s plans, to ‘customize’ my Truant sailing dinghy. “TruantSea” was built to serve a number of purposes:

  1. A day boat to go fishing harbours, estuary, lakes, rivers or streams with my darling wife, or a couple of mates, or the grandkids (when they are older).
  2. A sailing dinghy to teach me how to sail better, keep me dry and let me launch and retrieve it single-handed.
  3. A small cruiser to carry basic camping gear for 1 or 2 people, for a night or two away.

It has fulfilled its purpose admirably. The items mentioned achieve those aims better, safer or more comfortably. BUT, in its basic design, Truant is still a mighty fine boat!

Please refer to the relevant pictures…

DRAINS

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Photo 1 - Screw bungs go through the transom to allow exit of draining water.

As I wanted to frequently carry overnite camping gear in the boat, I installed 2” drainpipe tubes in the centre compartments to carry excess water from the forward area to the rear footwell. This allows the 2x large compartments to remain dry and watertight for storage.
More 2” drain pipes were installed in the transom buoyancy compartment to allow the same for that area. These tubes terminate in exterior screw bungs fitted through the transom. The idea works superbly!

I also drilled holes at seat level in each of the bulkhead panels to allow water to drain to the rear. Screw bungs go through the transom at rear seat level to allow exit of draining water. These are absolutely necessary when washing out the boat after fishing, or after spirited sailing, or after rain.

HATCHES

To access these extra storage areas I made hinged wooden hatch lids midships, retained with shockcord and u cleats, with a shop-bought plastic rectangular hatch at the stern. The rear compartment is so easy for easy items like sponge, camera, cellphone, tools, etc, which are now all at hand whilst out in the boat. (see photo 3)

ANCHORWELL

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Photo 2 - It seemed so much easier to create a permanent space (with its own external drain outlet), to put the anchor, chain and rope.

It seemed so much easier to create a permanent space (with its own external drain outlet), to put the anchor, chain and rope. The anchorwell keeps the boats interior dry, clean and uncluttered. The wet boatshoes and other small bits also go in there too.

SEATS

In fishing mode we fit curved wooden seats to the midships hatches. These are attached with 15mm diameter x 2” stainless steel bolts and wing nuts. They take about 90 seconds to install, swivel 360 degrees on nylon bases – but usually face to the stern. They are so much more comfortable on the back, when out for a few hours just sitting with a fishing rod, and only 90 seconds to remove and bung the holes in hatches. (see the seat mounting holes in photo 3)

FOOTWELL

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Photo 3 - I made hinged wooden hatch lids midships, retained with shockcord and u cleats, with a shop-bought plastic rectangular hatch at the stern.

Johns plans use ply doublers under the leading edges of the seat panels, overhanging the footwell area by 25-50 mm all round. I dispensed with these and cut the horizontal panels flush with the vertical faces and gained up to 100mm of extra legroom in that area. Really handy for two adults out for a fish or a sail. The edges are ‘softened’ with a ½ round timber moulding of only 10mm (glued and nailed) at the junction of the two planes of those panels.

RUBBING STRIPS

I got some 3” x 1” Kwila hardwood decking timber ripped lengthwise on both axis to give me 1 ½“ x ½” strips to screw onto the gunwales for rubbing strips. It’s as hard as hell, takes the knocks, needs no coatings and is easy to replace if it ever gets really damaged. It also adds a nice ‘natural’ finish to the boats exterior. (see photo 2)

COAMINGS

For more comfort whilst sailing, made wider that normal coamings. These are now approx 6” wide to allow extra back support. They also allow a number of smaller items to be tucked up underneath them out of the sun etc. (see photo 1 - photo 3)

RUDDER LIFTERS

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Photo 4 - Two ropes attached to the forward and aft edges of the rudder allow it to lift and lower.

Two ropes attached to the forward and aft edges of the rudder allow it to lift and lower. A small cleat on the tiller holds either of the ropes - to keep the rudder in position. It works well.

ROD HOLDERS

These perform more than just the obvious function. When trailering the boat I put hardwood blocks with a 1½ ” diameter dowel underneath, in them. These stop the ratcheted cargo straps tying boat down to trailer to not damage the comings or paint.
A different pair of blocks also hold cam cleats to retain the jib sheets when sailing.

Other than that, the rod holders are strategically located near the wooden seats for instant access to reel in those big fish. A single rod holder is also located at the rear of the footwell, for trolling in freshwater and it also houses the boom support when the sail is lowered, but not removed. (see photo 6)

CENTREBOARD

Instead of having exposed lead ballast in the board, I built up my unit with 2x layers of 9mm and one centre layer of 12mm ply. I cut a large hole in the lower portion of the centre layer and cast the lead into that – retaining it with pins and screws all around the edges of the hole. The lead was levelled and smoothed, then the three layers of the centreboard were glued and clamped together. An altogether nicer finish, even if it isn’t seen.

OUTBOARD BRACKET

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Photo 5 - I bought an old aluminium outboard bracket, sanded the oxidisation off it, and glued 3mm ply to the exterior.

I got sick of shifting the outboard from centre of the stern to stowing it up front in the boat when sailing. I would not dare go on the water without it for any distance! But I wanted to keep to the rather traditional natural look. So I bought an old aluminium outboard bracket off the internet, sanded the oxidisation off it- back to bare metal, and glued 3mm ply to the exterior. I think it looks great and is in keeping with the look.

FLOOR PANELS

I made two ply panels for the forward footwell area. These are held in place with 2 stainless screws each, but are easily removable. The ‘dress’ up that area which originally shows the stringers and underpanel of the boat. (see photo 3)

GAFF RIG

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Photo 6 - I got hold of a 2 piece 14 foot mast and sail and cut that sail down to a gaff rig.

After diverting from the traditional balanced lugsail John recommends (only because of finances mind you), originally fitted a BERMUDAN rig with 20 foot mast from a 13 foot father & son racing dinghy. Whilst it had phenomenal performance to windward, it was a real handful in a blow for this novice sailor. In fact I felt a little scared by the power of the thing sometimes! I got hold of a 2 piece 14 foot mast and sail and cut that sail down to a gaff rig. A wooden handle swivel mop and a few brass eyelets gave me the gaff and lashing points.

This ‘new’ sail is better downwind, more manageable in gusty conditions and overall ‘softer’ somehow. Whilst the gaff rig is not as good to windward, I am quite willing to sacrifice that for a nicer, safer feel. Who knows I may actually revert to JW’s advice and fit a lugsail when finances are better.

I must confess I am no boating expert.
I do however feel I have enhanced John Welsfords design for Truant – at least for my use of it.
I hope these simple ideas give rise to thoughts and modifications others may wish for their boats – whatever the design.


GRAHAME HARRIS.

SAILS

EPOXY

GEAR