‘How Shiny are YOUR Balls?’
                Joanne says all mini-van drivers must get a lobotomy 
                  before they can purchase their vehicles . . . at least they 
                  drive that way. 
                Me, I look at all the humongous SUV’s. Each one bigger 
                  than the last, with ‘rough & tough’ all-terrain 
                  attitude & tread, yet with ZERO ground clearance. 
                  Typically, the spare is also stored underneath as well. A common 
                  ‘option’ is usually a receiver hitch, with an un-locked 
                  bar & bright shiny ball. 
                You can always tell a vehicle ‘that works for a living’. 
                  Any attachment is usually banged up and covered with rust. The 
                  more ‘frugal’ {that’s cheap, 
                  like me} will keep the hitch bar inside, with the well-greased 
                  ball covered. My trailer ‘dolly’ gets the same treatment. 
                  Just last week they were both put to good use.
                For the last four years I’ve had a 1983 West Wight Potter 
                  15 sitting on some tires in my back drive. It came with the 
                  original trailer. This wouldn’t have been so bad, but 
                  the first two owners used the boat in salt water . . . and never 
                  washed the trailer. At least one gusset was rusted through, 
                  and big chunks were falling off the frame. While the frame itself 
                  sounded good when struck with a short maul, could the welds 
                  on the spring holders be trusted ?? The tires were only a few 
                  years old but the wheel bolts seemed rusted in place, and the 
                  nuts & bolts holding the support rollers were split by rust. 
                  All in all, as a ‘work stand’ it looked fine, but 
                  I didn’t trust it on the road. Plus, it would cost at 
                  least 2/3rds of the price of a new trailer to properly re-furbish 
                  it. I finally sold it to someone at the Club for a launching 
                  ‘beach buggy’.
                One of the reasons for the delay was I failed to do my usual 
                  ‘research’. Seeing all the different trailers at 
                  the Club, and reading the comments on the Groups, I figured 
                  there were the ‘usual’ six or seven manufacturers 
                  I remembered. How wrong that turned out to be !! Even 
                  though they are located here in the Mid-Atlantic area {one, 
                  literally on the outskirts of Philly}, there appears to be only 
                   THREE ‘production’ manufacturers 
                  left. Plus, it seems nothing is welded anymore . . . just ‘Tinkertoy’ 
                  bolted together.
                Anyway, a few weeks ago I finally got everything together and 
                  bought a new trailer. It wasn’t a ‘Potter’ 
                  trailer, but the smallest LoadRite ‘Bandit’ model. 
                  The designation/catalog gave the capacity as 800 pounds. The 
                  Certification sticker on the tongue said 980 pounds, NET. 
                  More than enough capacity for a boat that weighs less than 500 
                  pounds. The important things, to me, was that it had both three 
                  ‘cross beams’ and ‘rotating’ flat bunks. 
                  {That’s why I had to physically SEE the trailers. While 
                  the literature didn’t show it, one of the manufacturers 
                  has the bunks permanently fixed in the 800 & 1,000 
                  pound models}. When we ‘decanted’ the boat from 
                  the original trailer, the ‘tilting’ mechanism allowed 
                  us to raise the bow of the boat as high as necessary. Presently, 
                  there doesn’t seem to be any who have a ‘standard’ 
                  tilt-bed boat trailer {those made for International Marine not 
                  withstanding} Since we had to ‘recover’ the boat 
                  twice, I found that with the ‘proper placement’ 
                  of the bunks, the hull wasn’t scratched, and cranking 
                  the winch could easily rotate the ENTIRE trailer {forward of 
                  the wheels} up in the air. 
                As the boat was drawn up the bunks, the center of gravity shifted 
                  and the tongue came down . . . of course the judicious use of 
                  my ‘rail meat’ helped. However, even though I had 
                  measured carefully, the hull was askew. One was ‘outside’ 
                  of one of the small ‘skegs’ or ‘runners’, 
                  formed in the hull, and the other was ‘inside’ the 
                  opposite one. I was afraid this would allow the hull to shift 
                  sideways due to the normal vibration of highway travel. 
                I had thought ahead, made sketches and taken measurements from 
                  the old trailer. The intention was to save money by ordering 
                  the parts from a trailer speciality company. However, and ‘as 
                  usual’ things conspired to change that. Because of unexpected 
                  incidents, I was 6 months behind in the intended schedule. Getting 
                  the trailer, and the beginning of the sailmakers ‘busy 
                  season’ occurred simultaneously. {Her 15-foot mast is 
                  light & ‘whippy’ when unsupported, so I actually 
                  needed a long trailer, or the boat on a trailer, to carry the 
                  mast to the sailmaker . . . he wanted the mast & boom on 
                  hand to properly ‘set’ the slugs - the fact that 
                  he had been holding the sail and waiting for 4 years is another 
                  story !!} Therefore, after I had asked him about my sail, I 
                  didn’t want to delay any longer. What was needed were 
                  a set of short ‘Self Adjusting’ bunks, inboard of 
                  the others, that would just straddle the central ‘skeg 
                  keel’. These would act both to center the boat, and ease 
                  the bow up at recovery, so the outer bunks wouldn’t scrape 
                  on the hull.
                
                  detail of self-adjusting bunks
                There were holes in the aft frame 6 inches apart - but I wasn’t 
                  sure that was quite wide enough. Therefore I needed to get a 
                  pair of ‘Square U’ bolts as well as the proper brackets. 
                  By the end of the next day, after trips to a couple of trailer 
                  & marine stores, I had the proper brackets & ‘U’ 
                  bolts, plus 8 inch and 5 inch keel rollers with their respective 
                  brackets. That evening we ‘decanted’ the boat . 
                  . . again. Joanne’s only comment was, “You had 
                  better get it right, . . . this time ”. I also found 
                  out that I can lift the entire front of the boat to shoulder 
                  height . . . {so much for what the cardiologist has to say . 
                  . .}.
                Anyhow, the next day I made up a couple of 18 inch long ‘vertical’ 
                  bunks from Pressure Treated 2x4's and padded them with pieces 
                  of carpet . . . left over from what I scrounged to cover the 
                  bunks on the P19 trailer, several years ago. Drilled holes, 
                  and bolted them to the brackets with galvanized bolts, lock 
                  washers, & nuts. Placed them on the rear cross beam, about 
                  8 inches apart {from Joanne’s comments}, and secured by 
                  the ‘U’ brackets. 
                
                  astern - all four bunks
                 I also installed the 8 inch keel roller & bracket on the 
                  ‘mid’ cross beam. The idea here was two-fold . . 
                  . to prevent the forefoot from accidentally banging on it, if 
                  the hull support bunks were to wide apart, and to actually take 
                  the majority of the weight of the boat to make launching & 
                  recovery easier.
                
                  8 inch keel roller
                 I held off with the 5 inch roller . . . I would install that 
                  after I saw where the forefoot would wind up. As it turned out, 
                  simply reversing the angle & relocating the ‘tongue 
                  roller’ accomplished the task.
                
                  Forward Beam roller
                The original trailer carried the boat with the stern about 
                  40 inches beyond the rear end of trailer. About the same distance 
                  & set-up as the larger P-19, and also how the present ‘factory’ 
                  P-15 trailers are arranged. When I first winched the boat to 
                  this position two things bothered me {remember, I didn’t 
                  have the ‘Self-Adjusting’ keel bunks at that time}. 
                  The long bunks only had their front portions in contact with 
                  the hull. From about the mid-point to the end there was an increasing 
                  amount of space . . . about 4 inches at the aft end. Pushing 
                  down on the stern, or motor mount, I could easily get the boat 
                  to move like an old-fashioned ‘rocking horse’ !! 
                  The other thing was only about 50 pounds of ‘tongue weight’. 
                  While the books say 6 to 8 % is ‘normal’, I remembered 
                  that the ‘original’ actually had more downward weight 
                  than the tong on my 1200 pound P-19. I also feel a bit more 
                  comfortable having about 75 to 100 pounds with such a ‘light 
                  load’. {‘Tongue Weight’ is what keeps the 
                  trailer in solid contact with the hitch, especially on rough 
                  & variable surfaces. It also affects how the trailer ‘tracks’ 
                  the tow vehicle.} Winching the boat about 6 to 12 inches further 
                  forward brought her almost fully onto the bunks, in a position 
                  to allow the forefoot to be supported, and gave me a scale reading 
                  of 98 pounds. A little adjusting of the bunk supports, relocating 
                  the winch pedestal/bow stop, and ‘”Bob’s Your 
                  Uncle !!”.
                
                  Port Bow front view
                 I also found that with the mass of the boat supported by the 
                  rollers {the bunks mostly for ‘balance’}, it was 
                  easy to push the boat rearward - to a more advantageous ‘launching 
                  position’.
                While times have changed, and the manufacturer you remembered 
                  as making that ‘perfect’ trailer is no longer in 
                  existence, or your in that position of making a ‘Re-furbish 
                  or Buy New’ decision, don’t despair. A little thinking 
                  {AHEAD is always good !}, a little ingenuity, and any problem 
                  can be solved. {I’m waiting to get her back from the sailmakers 
                  . . . I already have the materials to make a support for the 
                  steel centerboard . . .}. 
                Oh, yea . . . my balls ? Well used & greasy . . . 
                
                  Trailer & dolly balls photo