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Quick and Dirty Cleats
By David Beede simplicityboats@clmg.com or david@fools.net

David Beede builds boats and musical instruments in Florida,and considers himself a wannabe inventor; I'd say he really is one.  Take a look at his web pages too:
http://members.xoom.com/simpleboats/
http://members.tripod.com/simplicityboats/


Here are some cleats I've come up with made from plastic tubing. These are very "quick and dirty." I made all of the ones pictured in about an hour. The material cost is negligible. This ivory colored plastic pipe, (I believe it's  called CPVC)  is available in different diameters. The brand name on it is Coastline. The ones in the pictures are 5/8" I.D. and about 7/8" O.D. Make sure you sand all edges pretty smooth to prevent line chafe. These are my first experiments so I don't know about UV resistance or longevity. I'll keep you posted.
The first one takes the place of a fair  lead and cam cleats on a small boat. I have mine tied to the middle of the central frame with 3/16" line. It's not as foolproof as "the real thing" but is far better than just hanging onto the main sheet, or wrapping it around a normal cleat.  cleatmain.jpg (12946 bytes)
cleatmain3.jpg (11630 bytes) Here's a close up of it. It's cut at a 45 degree angle. A 3/16" hole is drilled in the side. Sketch out then cut a tapered V to this hole. Drill the mounting hole the size you need for your mounting cord. (mine is 1/4") With practice you can adjust it with one hand. A downward sqeeeze with the thumb will release it. Works well in combination with a tiller tamer of some sort. (A simple one of these soon!)
This one is similar to a horn cleat or jam cleat, being a bit of both. Again, the slot holes are 3/16" as are the mounting holes. They are drilled all the way through, then the upper holes are enlarged to 5/16" to allow clearance for the screw head and driver for mounting. cleathorn2.jpg (8788 bytes)
cleatdouble.jpg (9372 bytes) This last one is pretty experimental. It's designed to take a line or bungee cord running through it that can then be prevented from running out either way. Not often necessary, but handy for things like the loop of line used on my Venture McGreggor's rudder to both hold the rudder up and down.

Experiment with different sized tubing and slots for the line you're  using. Let me know your results!

Here's my latest variation on tube cleats. I discovered PVC is very willing to bend with minimal heat. I use a hot air gun like those used for scraping paint. This has the same "jaws" as the others, but with more flair in the "fair lead" end.  Since it is more rigid yet movable, it is much easier to operate with one hand. The PVC costs about 15 cents. Greatest cost is the stainless bolts to mount it to the frame. cl3s.jpg (4906 bytes)
flare1s.jpg (5417 bytes) Heat and pliers create a nice flare to allow the line to feed in smoothly. I matched the angle to the line that feed into it from the bridal over my transom.
Experiment with different sized tubing and slots for the line you're  using. Let me know your results! simplicityboats@clmg.com main3s.jpg (5417 bytes)
seatcleat.jpg (2797 bytes) This is  a simple notch cut in the mast step/ seat with a saber saw. I have one on either end. The halyard and  down haul go through 1/2" holes at the base of the mast, then come under seat and up into jam slot. Works great with no hardware! For  slippery line take a turn around the seat before jamming.
This is about as simple as a boat dolly can get. It's a piece of 2x4 covered with carpet with  1/2" bolts hammered into holes  in the end for axles. These plastic wheels are off a discarded kids toy, but you can  use lawn mower wheels, or the best would be those small (12" or so?) pneumatic wheels they use on some hand carts. I sandwiched the wheels between large fender washers. The boat just sits on it, bow  or stern, and rolls. I can tie it on for longer trecks, and it also clamps easily to the transom so the boat can be maneuvered upside down. dolly1s.jpg (11374 bytes)

 

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